“In the late ‘70s early ‘80s, one generation tried to grow oysters in the Damariscotta River and failed,” Scully says of previous efforts to foster an aquaculture industry in the area. “I looked at what others had done to see if I could do it better. I started with really small numbers. Then life became one big science project.”
Her science project paid off and now her Glidden Point Oyster Sea Farm is one of many farms supplying the country with this shellfish best known for being eaten raw on the half shell. The industry has revived a culinary tradition with ancient roots in the region.
Two thousand years ago oysters were so abundant in the Damariscotta River that Native Americans created shell piles more than 30 feet deep from the remains of their oyster feasting. But by the late 1800s these oyster populations had pretty much been wiped out. Now, with the return of aquaculture, wild oysters (spawned by the farmed variety) have begun to reestablish themselves in the river.
All of this adds up to lots of good eats for oyster lovers and plenty of material to work with for chefs.
Savoring oysters
“From the back door of my restaurant, I can see where the oysters we’re serving are harvested,” says Rick Hirsch, who is the chef/owner of the Damariscotta River Grill. “People are coming to town just to eat oysters.”
Hirsch always has fresh oysters on the menu, but the preparation style changes. Right now the menu includes oysters au gratin, but at other times he offers up oyster stew, oyster fritters or BBQ oysters. Of course, you can always get oysters on the half shell, which come with three signature dipping sauces: a classic mignonette (Champagne vinegar, lemon, ground pepper and shallots), a Russian cocktail sauce with freshly ground horseradish and a jalapeno relish.
“My favorite way to eat them is with the jalapeno relish,” Hirsch says. “There’s something about the salty brine and the sweet and spicy relish that works well for me.”
Lee Skawinski, who is the chef/owner of Vignola and Cinque Terre in Portland, says raw oysters are “really enjoyable to eat. A glass of Chablis with oysters is a match made in heaven.”
You’ll never have a problem finding oysters on the menu at both of Skawinski’s restaurants. Right now you can get oysters roasted with breadcrumbs, butter, shallots and white wine at Vignola. And, as we get closer to the holidays, Cinque Terre will serve up raw oysters with pomegranate mignonette.
How to prepare
When it comes to preparing oysters at home, Skawinski says the best advice is to keep it simple.
“The oysters are so beautiful that we get from Maine,” he says. “It’s important to respect the integrity of the product.”
Hirsch echoes this point when he says the best cooked oysters are served on the rare side to preserve the distinctive taste. This may mean grilling them in the shell for four to five minutes or quickly roasting them in the oven.
“For both on the half shell and cooking them, the liquor is where most of the flavor is,” Hirsch says. “So when shucking them you want to preserve that liquor.”
Proper shucking is really an art, but at its most basic it requires slipping a knife between the top and bottom shells near the hinge and running the knife all the way around the oyster. Then, with a twisting motion, pry the shell apart. Finally, cut the oyster loose from the shell. (It’s best to wear gloves or cover your hand in a towel to avoid being cut.)
Hirsch says when serving oysters raw, he flips the oyster over to hide any blemishes caused by the shucking process.
“The biggest thing is to know where you’re getting your oysters from and to keep them very cold,” Skawinski says of the keys to serving the best oysters.
Scully at Glidden Point says the local growers have benefited from this need for cold (an attribute the Atlantic has in abundance) and purity.
“Something that’s going to be eaten raw people want confidence that it’s going to be clean,” Scully says. “People trust the quality of Maine.”
Her operation, where she harvests more than 500,000 oysters each year, also benefits from her training as a scientist.
“I’m extremely picky, and I attend to detail very meticulously,” she says.
This scientific approach, coupled with the relative cleanliness of Maine’s coastal waters, has catapulted the Maine oyster business into an estimated $2 to $3 million industry, according to the Maine Aquaculture Association.
“Some of the best oysters in the world come from where we are,” Skawinski says.
And that’s something you don’t need a lab test to confirm. Just a simple taste test will do.